The Journal
Stories from the table
Destination guides, food stories, and dispatches from 25 years of culinary travel.
Featured Reading
Destination Guide
Why Provence in October is Unlike Anywhere Else
Lavender fields, truffle season, and a kitchen that only opens for friends.
October is when Provence stops performing for tourists and starts cooking for itself. The markets smell different, the light sits lower, and the chefs have time to talk.
01/03
Food & Wine
The Burgundy Cellars That Don’t Take Walk-Ins
Twenty-five years of showing up means some doors open that won’t open for anyone else.
There are domaines in Burgundy that produce some of the world’s greatest wine and have no website, no tasting room, and no interest in strangers. We know which ones will pour for us.
02/03
Travel Stories
Baking Bread in the Atlas Mountains
An early morning, a clay oven, and Berber women who have been doing this for centuries.
Nobody speaks the same language. It doesn’t matter. By the time the bread comes out of the oven you understand everything that needs to be understood.
03/03
A Tuscan Ragù That Refuses to Be Rushed
Three hours, one pot, and one rule she would never break.
Where to Eat in San Sebastián When the Stars Are Booked
The bars the locals queue for, not the lists.
The Long Lunch That Lasted Until Dark in Puglia
Nobody checked a watch. That was the whole point.
Why We Always Go Back to This One Winemaker in Burgundy
He doesn’t advertise. He doesn’t need to.
The Provençal Tapenade Recipe We’ve Been Making for Twenty Years
From a market stallholder in Arles who made us promise not to share it.
Japan for Food Lovers: Where to Actually Go
Not the obvious cities. The places the chefs eat.
Learning to Make Pasta in a Farmhouse That Has No Sign
The kind of class that doesn’t appear on any website.
What a Basque Txoko Actually Is
A members-only kitchen, a long table, and no tourists.
The Morocco Nobody Photographs
Where the food is, the cameras aren’t.
Summer Berry Pavlova by Le Calabash
This summer vacherin is the perfect sweet ending to a long lunch. Top it with whatever summer...
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Join the Table
Insider recommendations, seasonal menus and trips worth planning for.